MARSALA

One of the cities that best represents me is the one in which I was born and raised: Marsala. It is a small town of 82498 thousand inhabitants, located in an island called Sicily, the largest Italian island. Everyone remembers it not only for its beauty but also for the famous Garibaldi landing. The city that saw the beginning of the Garibaldi epic celebrates it with a monument to the hero of the two worlds and its Garibaldini in the place where, on 11 May 1860, the thousand, the Piedmont and Lombardo square, landed, dedicated to the two ships that they sailed from Quarto in Liguria to Marsala, with many young volunteers who wanted to follow Garibaldi in the enterprise of bringing Italy together.

The monument was placed in 1893 in the square of the port to remember and celebrate the landing and was constituted, in addition to the base visible today, from a granite column with a statue on the top representing the winged genius of freedom. On 11 May 2010, the monument was placed, after its restoration, in the Piedmont and Lombardo square.

From this square, starts the” Via dei Mille”, which rises slightly towards the heart of the city reaching Piazza Mameli, through which is Porta Garibaldi, the solemn entrance into the historic center of Marsala. The door, which after the unification of Italy was named after the great leader, welcomes tourists and citizens with majesty and simplicity at the same time.

Once in the square "Loggia", on the right we find Palazzo VII Aprile, seat of the city council since the sixteenth century, so called in memory of April 7, 1860, when Marsala was the popular revolt against the Bourbons who prepared the land at the expedition of the Thousand. After crossing the whole square and passing in front of the Cathedral Church, you immediately reach Via Ludovico Anselmi Correale, where, on the right, there is the entrance to the sixteenth century monumental complex of San Pietro, home to the Museo Civico, divided into three sections, one of which is dedicated to Garibaldi and his Thousand.

The Museo Garibaldino is well organized and permanently hosts numerous relics, weapons, uniforms and original documents, portraits of the volunteers who made the Unification of Italy and, obviously, objects and prints that enhance the myth of Garibaldi.

Coming out of the San Pietro Complex and climbing along the Via Correale, we head towards the Church of Madonna della Cava, patron of Marsala, where Garibaldi, who returned to the city in 1862, after having attended Mass, pronounced the famous phrase "O Rome or death! ". Back on the Via XI Maggio, the so-called "Cassaro", where the marsalesi make the traditional walk, we turn right towards the arch of Porta Nuova, from which we access the Piazza della Vittoria, where, on the left, on the prospect of an ancient building a plaque reminds us that Garibaldi slept in this building on the night of May 11, 1860. Crossing the square, a half-bust of the hero of the two worlds reminds all passers-by, tourists or not, the importance that the city of Marsala has had and still has in the history of Italy.

To push the visitor towards the westernmost part of Sicily are the many combinations of history that form an enchanting landscape, with countless points of view. On the extreme point of the island there is Marsala with its colors yellow-blue, blue, rossotramonto, biancosale, verdevigneto. From the Phoenician origins - with Greek, Roman, Arab, Norman, Swabian, Angevin, Spanish influences - Marsala is rich in artistic beauties and unique, unrepeatable contents.

Strong of its archaeological and environmental character, Marsala preserves testimonies scattered in a geographically special place, where nature is expressed in its multiple characters. The artistic patrimony that the territory proposes is wide: churches, caves and sanctuaries; hypogea, thermal baths and submerged streets; statues, amphorae and shipwrecks; necropolis and places of worship. From the Lagoon of the Stagnone and up to the historic center extends an immense ancient area - partly recovered, but still very submerged - that coexists with the modern urban complex.

A legendary land in the heart of the Mediterranean, Marsala rises on Capo Boeo. On one side it is protected by Erice, on the other by the embrace of Segesta and Selinunte; look to the nearby Egadi islands (20 minutes of navigation, daily connections) and to Africa (the Tunisian coasts are just 80 miles). It has one of its main economic and tourist resources in the sea, while agriculture, with its eight thousand hectares of vineyards, feeds the wine industry: over one million hectoliters a year of whites, reds and liqueurs, among which the noble marsala. If we briefly go through the history of Sicily, it is easy to see the importance of Marsala, which has its roots in the 4th century BC. From the sea come the Phoenicians to settle on the island of Mozia, the archaeological pearl of the Stagnone, which the Carthaginians can not defend from the siege and destruction of Dionysius the Elder, tyrant of Syracuse. It is 397 a.C. and the few survivors move to the nearby promontory of Capo Boeo, where they found Lilybeo.

Under Roman domination, then, commerce flourishes and business develops; while with the arrival of the Arab pirates - VIII century - the city was renamed with the name of Marsa Allah (Port of God), according to others Marsa Ali, hence the current name. In 1773, the story of Marsala goes hand in hand with that of the homonymous wine thanks to the English: first John Woodhouse, then Ingham and Whitaker, discover and enhance the oldest Doc of Italy. Ten years later, the Florio will be the first Italians to market Marsala.

With the landing of Giuseppe Garibaldi - 11 May 1860 - this city begins to write one of the most beautiful pages of the Risorgimento that, one year later, will culminate in a united and republican Italy.

Today Marsala still retains its archaeological, seafaring, garibaldian character. It is a city of wine, flowers, salt, strawberries and ceramics. Here, colors, flavors and scents of Sicily meet in a territory that, between narrow streets of the historic center and villages in the hinterland, continues to cultivate typical Mediterranean hospitality. The value of hospitality is in the DNA of the people of Marsala.

The historic center is almost entirely recovered, enclosed between old walls and ancient ramparts, the ancient heart of Marsala pulses in Piazza Loggia. In this evocative architectural setting, the Cathedral (dedicated to St. Thomas Becket) and the Palazzo VII Aprile (which recalls the first revolutionary movements of the 19th century) stand out majestically. The Cassaro, today via XI Maggio, splits the center in two. On one side the Spanish quarter with the historic Porta di Mare, the Sanctuary of the Addolorata and the Church of Purgatory, Piazza San Girolamo and that of the Carmine with the bell-shaped bell tower. On the other, the Jewish quarter where stands the sixteenth-century Complex San Pietro with cuspidated tower and, not far away, the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Cava, patron saint of the city. Continuing along Via XI Maggio, between alleys and courtyards, the view is captured by the eighteenth-century Palazzo Fici and Porta Nuova. This is the entrance to the archaeological area of ​​Capo Boeo, with the ancient Roman road, the decumano maximo, and the church dedicated to San Giovanni Battista built over the Sibylla Sibylla Cave: an evocative hypogeum where a source of fresh water, source of life of the first inhabitants of the city.

The fame of Marsala wine is linked to the English and was born at the end of '700, history and legend intertwine to such an extent that we can not say whether they were the inventors or discoverers of Marsala wine. Of course we owe to them the marketing all over the world of one of the most famous wines of Italy.

Tradition has it that everything began in 1773, when an English merchant named John Woodhouse, was forced by a sirocco storm to find refuge with his brigantine in the port of Marsala. Here, together with his men, he was able to taste a local wine, strong, sunny and robust, the so-called perpetuum, usually aged in large oak barrels from which, after a long period, a certain amount was taken and then replaced with a equal quantity of young wine. The repetition "in perpetuity" of this operation over the years guaranteed a skilful amalgam of uniform wines even if of different vintages.

Woodhouse immediately loved this wine and sensed its great potential. He sent it about 320 hectoliters in his homeland, but did not specify which wine it was. And out of fear that during the long journey the wine could deteriorate, it added 2% of wine spirit. Woodhouse was convinced that this liqueur wine could well match the meals of the English, accustomed to strong and mighty wines like Madeira or Porto.

The English gave the wine a triumphal welcome, enough to convince the merchant to return to Marsala to start production in style. Woodhouse can therefore be defined not so much the inventor, but rather the "wine scout" of this lucky drink, just as other Englishmen discovered Cognac or Porto.

But why did Woodhouse decide to launch the Sicilian product when, on the tables of the English, wines such as Jerez, Madeira and Porto already abounded? The answer is in favorable economic conditions. When he arrived in Marsala, he immediately realized that it was the only territory that would allow him the monopoly of wine production. He found a virgin land and managed to impose his own purchase prices of the grapes, thus making his fortune and the wine he discovered.

Woodhouse began the production of wine in Marsala and then, in 1813, he moved to Petrosino, a few kilometers from Marsala, where he built a new beam and produced for many years the wine Marsala helped by a woman from Madeira, belonging to a historic family of vinifiers and to which he was romantically linked. The image of the portal of the baglio is depicted in the emblem of the town of Petrosino in honor of its most illustrious businessman.

Another natural beauty belonging to the city of Marsala is Mozia, the magnificent pearl at the center of the Natural Reserve of the Stagnone di Marsala and right in front of the salt marshes means quietly plunging into ancient times, where you breathe and touch the history of our origins. After its complete destruction by the tyrant of Syracuse Dionysius IV in 397 BC, at the moment of its maximum splendor, the Carthaginian and Phoenician survivors took refuge on the promontory of Lilibeo founding Marsala and abandoning the idea of ​​rebuilding the island-city. Precisely for this reason Mozia has come to us almost intact, almost at that 397 B.C., and has given us and continues to give us an archaeological heritage of immense value, although only partially returned to light.

To arrive on the island it is necessary to make a very short crossing starting from one of the two landing stages located right in front of it.

As soon as you disembark, a boulevard immersed in typical vegetation leads to the museum, from where our itinerary departs. Whitaker's old country house, which he later turned into a museum, is the natural home of the world-famous Auriga statue, which was exhibited at the British Museum in the prestigious Parthenon Hall on the occasion of the London 2012 Olympics.

Leaving the museum, begins our walk that runs along the perimeter of Mozia proceeding clockwise.

A few dozen meters from the museum we meet the house of mosaics, a building dating back to the 6th century. a.C., called by the Whitaker "house of the capitals" for the large amount of these discovered architectural elements.

Following the path that runs along the sea on one side and the walls on the other, you reach the barracks, leaning on the outside of a large tower of the city walls.

Continuing, a little further on, we meet the south gate, one of the 4 accesses to the city, and the Cothon, with the large artificial basin and the adjacent sacred area, still the subject of excavations and in-depth studies.

From the Cothon, following the path that runs along the sea or cutting through the interior, we reach the western fortress, located on the west side of the west gate.

A little further on we find the Tofet, the typical Phoenician-Punic sanctuary in the open air, and even further the necropolis of the archaic phase, whose burials date back to the period between the end of the 8th century. and the seventh century B.C. and are characterized by three types of cinerari.

Leaving the necropolis and continuing, it is the imposing North Gate that attracts our attention, the main entrance to the city with two powerful advanced bastions. From it starts the submerged road that led to the Birgi necropolis.

From the North Gate, following the road that leads to the interior of the city-island, we reach the Mozia area: the eastern tower.

Sacred of the “Cappiddazzu” sanctuary and, in the immediate vicinity, in the industrial areas, destined to the pottery and to the tanning and coloring of leather and fabrics, in use since the seventh century. B.C. In one of these, the one north of the” Cappiddazzu” sanctuary, the young Auriga of Mozia was found.

Returning to the North Gate and resuming the circumnavigation of the island, we encounter long stretches of the ancient city walls up to the great Eastern Tower (pictured right), perfectly restored, equipped with an external staircase that led directly onto the Stagnone.

Continuing along the path along the sea, we arrive at the Mojo pier, from where our journey began and near which the East gate of the ancient city has been identified, still completely to be investigated.

One of the traditions most felt by the citizens of Marsala is the Holy Week in Sicily which is certainly the richest, most spectacular, characteristic and, at the same time, the most mystical and heartfelt of the Italian Holy Weeks. And also in Marsala the commemoration of the Passion, Death and Resurrection of Jesus is reproposed through precise forms of theatricalization from which the human and terrestrial content of the Event emerges and that transform the streets of the city center into a colorful stage of pain sets and of joy, in which the contrast between the sacred and the profane is evident, between the artistic and religious dimensions.

A ritual that takes the form of a festival-show that involves all the Marsala, committed to recite the drama of Christ with great transport and emotion, in the belief that retracing the salient phases of his pain and his death serves to perpetuate its memory.

Many consider these profane and desecrating rites; in reality it is only a matter of dramatizations that man uses to make figuratively revive the events of the life of Christ, to better visualize and celebrate them. Moreover, the strength of these manifestations, at the base of which there is always great piety, emotion and a deep religious sentiment, lies in their ability to be immediately popular, transforming values ​​and religious sentiments into simple gestures, easily understood by people. who assists and who becomes a heartfelt participant of the event.

The most significant moment of the Holy Week in Marsala is the Procession of the Living Groups of Thursday, with a procession of hundreds of actors and figures, all in period costume, that crosses the streets of the city.

On Holy Thursday each year there is an impressive sacred procession consisting of 9 groups of people, each of which represents events related to the Passion of Christ, starting from the last supper and up to the ascent to Calvary.

All groups are preceded by a hooded that carries the cross, from the Jews who play trumpet and drum; the procession includes the participation of the statues of the dead Christ and of the “Addolorata” at the end of the procession and brought by sisters and confreres of the Church of St. Anne and two other groups consisting of girls bearing palms and olive branches and children they wear precious covers - heads belonging to the Church. They are embellished with gold jewelry from the same family as the child. In general, the procession of Holy Thursday ends in the evening with the theatrical representation of the Crucifixion of Christ.

And to conclude I wanted to introduce the city that counts the best beaches in Italy.

Marsala is a city of sun and sea. The sun shines much of the year, offering the opportunity for those who love the sea and the warm Mediterranean climate to enjoy relaxing holidays. The sea is limpid and crystalline, the white and fine sand, the beaches are lost visibly especially on the south side.

The beaches, from year to year more and more equipped and organized, are easily accessible from the city center by public transport or by bike. However, there are also stretches of free beach, which often hide small corners of paradise, particularly suitable for those dedicated to diving or water sports, but also for those who do not like the noisy liveliness of organized structures.

For those who love uncontaminated natural landscapes, they can take delightful walks along the coast of the Stagnone or have fun on a sailboat, on surfboards or kites. And for sport fishing enthusiasts there is nothing better than sitting on the shore of the Stagnone and, waiting for the fish to bite, enjoy the beauty of the lagoon with its islets, salt marshes and the Egadi islands in the background.

Marzia Gentile

BIBLIOGRAFY:

https://www.marsalaturismo.com

https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marsala

https://www.turismocomunemarsala.com/

(Artigo de opinião produzido no âmbito da unidade curricular “Economia do Turismo”, de opção, lecionada a alunos de vários cursos de mestrado da EEG, a funcionar no 2º semestre do ano letivo 2018/2019)